Is that a sound you hear a lot this time of year? August and September means allergies for many Americans and according to the American Lung Association, the air inside your home can be as much as FIVE times more irritating to allergy sufferers than the air outside. In fact, unclean air in your home can lead to a build-up of bacteria, dust, dirt, molds and mildew. According to the American College of Allergists, 50% of illnesses, allergies and asthma are caused or aggravated by these molds, mildew, bacteria or fungi.
Indoor air quality products that work in conjunction with your heating and cooling system are the best way to clean the air circulating in your home and improve the health of you and your family.
• Air Cleaners
It’s the particles you can’t see that you need to worry about, virus-sized particles and bacteria, allergens, respirable dust and other airborne contaminants. A Whole-House Air Cleaner can provide relief, up to 40 times more efficiently than standard filters, from these irritants. Air cleaners can improve your health while keeping your entire house cleaner.
• Air Purifiers
A Whole-House Air Purifier is the most effective air cleaning system available. It thoroughly cleans and filters out 99.98% of allergens from the filtered air and is up to 100 times more effective than a standard 1” filter. An air purifier is able to deliver cleaner air, and more of it!
• UV Germicidal Lamp
UV (Ultravoilet) Germicidal Lamps work to destroy airborne contaminants. Mold and bacteria can easily grow on air conditioning coils as a result of normal condensation that takes place during the cooling process. A UV Germicidal Lamp is designed to kill that mold and bacteria by breaking down its DNA. The elimination of mold and bacteria will reduce your family’s risk of allergic reactions and illnesses as well as get rid of foul odors.
• Filters
You can switch from a standard 1” filter to a higher quality HEPA filter to increase the filtration of particles in the air in your home. Also just by changing or cleaning (depending upon the filter type) your filter monthly will help cut down on the amount of dust and pollutants in your air. Filters remove dust and other particles from the air such as pollen, bacteria, smoke, smog, pet dander, and plant and mold spores.
Sunday, August 28, 2011
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Tips: heating and cooling
Tips: Heating and Cooling
Household Heating Systems
Although several different types of fuels are available to heat our homes, more than half of us use natural gas.
Heating and cooling your home uses more energy and drains more energy dollars than any other system in your home. Typically, 43% of your utility bill goes for heating and cooling. What's more, heating and cooling systems in the United States together emit 150 million tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere each year, adding to global climate change. They also generate about 12% of the nation's sulfur dioxide and 4% of the nitrogen oxides, the chief ingredients in acid rain.
No matter what kind of heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning system you have in your house, you can save money and increase your comfort by properly maintaining and upgrading your equipment. But remember, an energy-efficient furnace alone will not have as great an impact on your energy bills as using the whole-house approach. By combining proper equipment maintenance and upgrades with appropriate insulation, air sealing, and thermostat settings, you can cut your energy use for heating and cooling, and reduce environmental emissions, from 20% to 50%.
Heating and Cooling Tips
Set your thermostat as low as is comfortable in the winter and as high as is comfortable in the summer.
Clean or replace filters on furnaces once a month or as needed.
Clean warm-air registers, baseboard heaters, and radiators as needed; make sure they're not blocked by furniture, carpeting, or drapes.
Bleed trapped air from hot-water radiators once or twice a season; if in doubt about how to perform this task, call a professional.
Place heat-resistant radiator reflectors between exterior walls and the radiators.
Turn off kitchen, bath, and other exhaust fans within 20 minutes after you are done cooking or bathing; when replacing exhaust fans, consider installing high-efficiency, low-noise models.
During the heating season, keep the draperies and shades on your south-facing windows open during the day to allow the sunlight to enter your home and closed at night to reduce the chill you may feel from cold windows.
During the cooling season, keep the window coverings closed during the day to prevent solar gain.
Long-Term Savings Tips
Select energy-efficient products when you buy new heating and cooling equipment. Your contractor should be able to give you energy fact sheets for different types, models, and designs to help you compare energy usage. For furnaces, look for high Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratings. The national minimum is 78% AFUE, but there are ENERGY STAR models on the market that exceed 90% AFUE.
For air conditioners, look for a high Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). The current minimum is 13 SEER for central air conditioners. ENERGY STAR models are 14 SEER or more.
Household Heating Systems
Although several different types of fuels are available to heat our homes, more than half of us use natural gas.
Heating and cooling your home uses more energy and drains more energy dollars than any other system in your home. Typically, 43% of your utility bill goes for heating and cooling. What's more, heating and cooling systems in the United States together emit 150 million tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere each year, adding to global climate change. They also generate about 12% of the nation's sulfur dioxide and 4% of the nitrogen oxides, the chief ingredients in acid rain.
No matter what kind of heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning system you have in your house, you can save money and increase your comfort by properly maintaining and upgrading your equipment. But remember, an energy-efficient furnace alone will not have as great an impact on your energy bills as using the whole-house approach. By combining proper equipment maintenance and upgrades with appropriate insulation, air sealing, and thermostat settings, you can cut your energy use for heating and cooling, and reduce environmental emissions, from 20% to 50%.
Heating and Cooling Tips
Set your thermostat as low as is comfortable in the winter and as high as is comfortable in the summer.
Clean or replace filters on furnaces once a month or as needed.
Clean warm-air registers, baseboard heaters, and radiators as needed; make sure they're not blocked by furniture, carpeting, or drapes.
Bleed trapped air from hot-water radiators once or twice a season; if in doubt about how to perform this task, call a professional.
Place heat-resistant radiator reflectors between exterior walls and the radiators.
Turn off kitchen, bath, and other exhaust fans within 20 minutes after you are done cooking or bathing; when replacing exhaust fans, consider installing high-efficiency, low-noise models.
During the heating season, keep the draperies and shades on your south-facing windows open during the day to allow the sunlight to enter your home and closed at night to reduce the chill you may feel from cold windows.
During the cooling season, keep the window coverings closed during the day to prevent solar gain.
Long-Term Savings Tips
Select energy-efficient products when you buy new heating and cooling equipment. Your contractor should be able to give you energy fact sheets for different types, models, and designs to help you compare energy usage. For furnaces, look for high Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratings. The national minimum is 78% AFUE, but there are ENERGY STAR models on the market that exceed 90% AFUE.
For air conditioners, look for a high Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). The current minimum is 13 SEER for central air conditioners. ENERGY STAR models are 14 SEER or more.
Friday, August 26, 2011
How To Unclog a Kitchen Sink Drain
The kitchen sink has a drain at the bottom of each basin. One drain typically leads to the garbage disposer and then on to the drain pipe. The other basin has a strainer to stop debris, water bypasses the disposer and goes straight to the drain pipe. If you have a dishwasher, it typically connects to an air gap mounted above the sink and then on to the garbage disposer.
A slow drain in the kitchen can often be resolved by running the garbage disposer. If the water begins draining from the sink, turn on hot water and let the disposer run for 30-60 seconds. If the disposer makes no sound, it may need to be reset by pressing the reset button on the bottom, underside of the disposer. If the disposer makes a sound but won't turn, turn it off and use a the manual crank wrench (a 1/4" Allen wrench will also work) to turn the impeller a few turns. Remove the wrench and try the disposer again.
Now if you still have a clogged sink, you might be thinking of using chemicals - Don't. Some chemicals can damage pipes, the environment or you if you get splashed. If you have to work on a drain after a chemical has been added, it makes the work harder and more hazardous. Additionally, most chemical drain cleaners don't work that well. Running hot water through clear drains is the best way to keep them clear. Skip the chemicals.
If water drains from one basin but not from the one with the disposer, the clog is in the disposer or the pipe immediately after it. If the basin with the disposer drains but not the other, it is small clog in the section of pipe leading from the strainer to the drain pipe. If neither side will drain, then the clog is probably in the "P" trap or farther along in the drain pipe. If the clog is affecting other fixtures, such as a bathroom or laundry room, then the clog is more serious and located in a branch drain line or main drain. More serious clogs should be addressed from clean outs designed to give access to branch and main drains. These are typically found outside or under the home.
If you believe the clog is local to the sink, you can use a plunger, an auger or a blow bag to grind or push out a stubborn clog. We like the effectiveness of blow bags, but lets start with the old-standby, the plunger. For a sink, use a standard model without a flange, like the one below.
When plunging, there must be some water in the fixture, so add water to cover the business end of the plunger. Tilt the plunger cup to burp the air as it is submerged in the water. Place the plunger over the drain and completely cover the drain opening. With the plunger completely under water, press and pull it rapidly for 15-20 seconds. If the water drains out of the basin, add some more water and plunge again. If the water seems to be properly draining, go ahead and run some water to test the drain.
An drain auger, a smaller version of a drain snake, can be inserted down the drain but you must remove the P-trap fitting beneath the sink and insert it there. The advantage is that if you are driving the auger deep into the drain line, there will be less friction than if it has to weave its way through the trap before reaching the drain line. To remove the P-trap, simply unscrew the two collars at either end of the "U" shaped pipe. Insert the drain snake as far as you can, then turn the set screw tight to hold the auger cable and crank the handle (or use a power drill on some models). As you crank the handle the auger tip grinds at the clog. Continue to insert to auger cable as far as it will go. If the auger gets stuck, reverse the direction of cranking and pull gently on the cable to extract a short length. Then resume forward action.
The last method, our favorite because it has worked so well for us in the past, is the blow bag. Picture a heavy duty balloon that screws onto the end of a hose. Picture a balloon with holes on the other end and that it is small enough to fit into a pipe. After removing the "P" trap, slide the blow bag as far as you can, into the pipe under the sink and turn on the hose. The first thing the bag does is inflate with water until it is securely wedged in the pipe. Now water starts spurting out the other end to blast away at the clog. Leave it on for a while and the force of the water will push the clog all the way out to the main sewer line. To remove it, turn off the water, wait a few seconds for it to deflate and then gently pull it out from the drain. Reconnect the section of pipe removed earlier and you should have a clear running drain.
A slow drain in the kitchen can often be resolved by running the garbage disposer. If the water begins draining from the sink, turn on hot water and let the disposer run for 30-60 seconds. If the disposer makes no sound, it may need to be reset by pressing the reset button on the bottom, underside of the disposer. If the disposer makes a sound but won't turn, turn it off and use a the manual crank wrench (a 1/4" Allen wrench will also work) to turn the impeller a few turns. Remove the wrench and try the disposer again.
Now if you still have a clogged sink, you might be thinking of using chemicals - Don't. Some chemicals can damage pipes, the environment or you if you get splashed. If you have to work on a drain after a chemical has been added, it makes the work harder and more hazardous. Additionally, most chemical drain cleaners don't work that well. Running hot water through clear drains is the best way to keep them clear. Skip the chemicals.
If water drains from one basin but not from the one with the disposer, the clog is in the disposer or the pipe immediately after it. If the basin with the disposer drains but not the other, it is small clog in the section of pipe leading from the strainer to the drain pipe. If neither side will drain, then the clog is probably in the "P" trap or farther along in the drain pipe. If the clog is affecting other fixtures, such as a bathroom or laundry room, then the clog is more serious and located in a branch drain line or main drain. More serious clogs should be addressed from clean outs designed to give access to branch and main drains. These are typically found outside or under the home.
If you believe the clog is local to the sink, you can use a plunger, an auger or a blow bag to grind or push out a stubborn clog. We like the effectiveness of blow bags, but lets start with the old-standby, the plunger. For a sink, use a standard model without a flange, like the one below.
When plunging, there must be some water in the fixture, so add water to cover the business end of the plunger. Tilt the plunger cup to burp the air as it is submerged in the water. Place the plunger over the drain and completely cover the drain opening. With the plunger completely under water, press and pull it rapidly for 15-20 seconds. If the water drains out of the basin, add some more water and plunge again. If the water seems to be properly draining, go ahead and run some water to test the drain.
An drain auger, a smaller version of a drain snake, can be inserted down the drain but you must remove the P-trap fitting beneath the sink and insert it there. The advantage is that if you are driving the auger deep into the drain line, there will be less friction than if it has to weave its way through the trap before reaching the drain line. To remove the P-trap, simply unscrew the two collars at either end of the "U" shaped pipe. Insert the drain snake as far as you can, then turn the set screw tight to hold the auger cable and crank the handle (or use a power drill on some models). As you crank the handle the auger tip grinds at the clog. Continue to insert to auger cable as far as it will go. If the auger gets stuck, reverse the direction of cranking and pull gently on the cable to extract a short length. Then resume forward action.
The last method, our favorite because it has worked so well for us in the past, is the blow bag. Picture a heavy duty balloon that screws onto the end of a hose. Picture a balloon with holes on the other end and that it is small enough to fit into a pipe. After removing the "P" trap, slide the blow bag as far as you can, into the pipe under the sink and turn on the hose. The first thing the bag does is inflate with water until it is securely wedged in the pipe. Now water starts spurting out the other end to blast away at the clog. Leave it on for a while and the force of the water will push the clog all the way out to the main sewer line. To remove it, turn off the water, wait a few seconds for it to deflate and then gently pull it out from the drain. Reconnect the section of pipe removed earlier and you should have a clear running drain.
How To Test a Sump Pump
Sump pumps are used to remove water that accumulates in a sump pit. Sump pits are typically placed in basements or crawl spaces beneath a home. The purpose of sump pits is to collect water in one place for easy drainage to a place away from the home or building. Water may build up as a result of a high water table, drainage from a collection system or direct run-
Sump pumps are simple mechanical devices. A typical sump pump is placed into a small, lined well. It is a submersible device and therefore should be plugged into a GFCI controlled power source. As water enters the sump pit, the rising water level lifts the sump float. When the float reaches a certain height, it turns on the sump pump. The sump pumps water out through a drainage pipe connected to it to direct water away from the home. As the water level in the sump pit drops, so does the float, which turns off the pump.
Because sump pumps are mechanical, they are subject to mechanical failure and should thus be inspected periodically. For units that experience infrequent operation, an annual inspection should be adequate. Higher frequency use warrants more frequent inspection.
To test a sump pump, ideally, you should add water to the sump pit until the sump float is lifted high enough to engage the pump. However, that may not always be practical. In this case you can lift the float by hand to engage the pump. Do not operate the pump for more than a few seconds without water in the sump pit.
If the sump pump does not power on when the float is lifted, make certain the pump has power. If it does have power, then the problem may be a failed float switch or a jammed / clogged pump. The float switch may be replaceable, depending upon the unit.
Because the water carried into the sump pit may contain dirt and debris, the sump pump can become clogged. It is recommended to scoop debris from the sump pit and to run clear water through the pump to remove any build-up. Run enough clear water to flush out debris build-up from the drainage pipe as well.
Keeping the sump pump in working order is vital to protecting your home or other building from moisture damage, including mold. It also protects the foundation from shifting as a result of excessive soil moisture. Testing should take only a few minutes and is very easy to do.
Sump pumps are simple mechanical devices. A typical sump pump is placed into a small, lined well. It is a submersible device and therefore should be plugged into a GFCI controlled power source. As water enters the sump pit, the rising water level lifts the sump float. When the float reaches a certain height, it turns on the sump pump. The sump pumps water out through a drainage pipe connected to it to direct water away from the home. As the water level in the sump pit drops, so does the float, which turns off the pump.
Because sump pumps are mechanical, they are subject to mechanical failure and should thus be inspected periodically. For units that experience infrequent operation, an annual inspection should be adequate. Higher frequency use warrants more frequent inspection.
To test a sump pump, ideally, you should add water to the sump pit until the sump float is lifted high enough to engage the pump. However, that may not always be practical. In this case you can lift the float by hand to engage the pump. Do not operate the pump for more than a few seconds without water in the sump pit.
If the sump pump does not power on when the float is lifted, make certain the pump has power. If it does have power, then the problem may be a failed float switch or a jammed / clogged pump. The float switch may be replaceable, depending upon the unit.
Because the water carried into the sump pit may contain dirt and debris, the sump pump can become clogged. It is recommended to scoop debris from the sump pit and to run clear water through the pump to remove any build-up. Run enough clear water to flush out debris build-up from the drainage pipe as well.
Keeping the sump pump in working order is vital to protecting your home or other building from moisture damage, including mold. It also protects the foundation from shifting as a result of excessive soil moisture. Testing should take only a few minutes and is very easy to do.
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Five Hurricane Tips and facts
The earthquake is over, but that may not be the end of the extreme weather New Jersey has been facing all year.
Hurricane Irene may come this way. The National Weather Service (NWS) predicts a 30 percent chance of rain Friday, which is expected to get worse by Saturday night, as there is a 90 percent chance of heavy rain. Tropical storm conditions are possible throughout Sunday.
The following facts and safety tips come from the New Jersey Guide to Emergency Preparedness and the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA). Here are five highlights.
A "full-blown hurricane "consists of winds traveling 75 miles per hour or faster, according to the Guide for Emergency Preparedness. Hurricanes are "a type of tropical cyclone," as winds move counterclockwise "near the earth's surface." Hurricane winds are strongest at higher elevations, according to FEMA. Thunderstorms are common during hurricanes. Along the Atlantic Ocean, hurricane season generally lasts from June 1 to November 30.
Before a hurricane, secure your home. You can "board up windows with 5/8 inch marine plywood, cut to fit and ready to install," the FEMA states on its website. "Tape does not prevent windows from breaking." Strap or clip your roof to the "frame structure" on your home. Trees and shrubs near your home should be "well trimmed." Clear "loose" and "clogged" rain gutters, as well as downspouts. Keep your refrigerator on the coldest setting, turn off your propane tanks and avoid using your phone, except for emergencies. Have a supply of water in containers and in your tub ready in case you can't access it otherwise.Stay tuned to local news networks and radio stations for any hurricane alerts. Go to a local shelter or evacuate you home as needed if the NWS issues a hurricane warning, and "protect lives and property," the state's emergency preparedness guide states.
You should evacuate your home under the following circumstances, according to FEMA: if the authorities tell you to; if you live in a "mobile home or temporary structure;" if you live in a "high-rise building;" if you live on the "coast," a "floodplain," "near a river, or on an inland waterway;" or if you feel like you are in danger.
During a hurricane, stay inside and away from windows and glass doors, FEMA states on its website. Be aware that a "lull" could mean you are in the "eye of the storm," so remain cautious, as winds may start again. Close all doors inside your home and secure external doors. Close all curtains and blinds. Hide in a small "interior room, closet, or hallway on the lowest level" and "lie on the floor under a table or another sturdy object."
Editor's Note: You can also check on Patch for your latest storm updates. Share your stories and submit storm photos by e-mailing Aaron@patch.com. For more specific information about hurricane safety, visit FEMA's website at www.fema.gov.
Hurricane Irene may come this way. The National Weather Service (NWS) predicts a 30 percent chance of rain Friday, which is expected to get worse by Saturday night, as there is a 90 percent chance of heavy rain. Tropical storm conditions are possible throughout Sunday.
The following facts and safety tips come from the New Jersey Guide to Emergency Preparedness and the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA). Here are five highlights.
A "full-blown hurricane "consists of winds traveling 75 miles per hour or faster, according to the Guide for Emergency Preparedness. Hurricanes are "a type of tropical cyclone," as winds move counterclockwise "near the earth's surface." Hurricane winds are strongest at higher elevations, according to FEMA. Thunderstorms are common during hurricanes. Along the Atlantic Ocean, hurricane season generally lasts from June 1 to November 30.
Before a hurricane, secure your home. You can "board up windows with 5/8 inch marine plywood, cut to fit and ready to install," the FEMA states on its website. "Tape does not prevent windows from breaking." Strap or clip your roof to the "frame structure" on your home. Trees and shrubs near your home should be "well trimmed." Clear "loose" and "clogged" rain gutters, as well as downspouts. Keep your refrigerator on the coldest setting, turn off your propane tanks and avoid using your phone, except for emergencies. Have a supply of water in containers and in your tub ready in case you can't access it otherwise.Stay tuned to local news networks and radio stations for any hurricane alerts. Go to a local shelter or evacuate you home as needed if the NWS issues a hurricane warning, and "protect lives and property," the state's emergency preparedness guide states.
You should evacuate your home under the following circumstances, according to FEMA: if the authorities tell you to; if you live in a "mobile home or temporary structure;" if you live in a "high-rise building;" if you live on the "coast," a "floodplain," "near a river, or on an inland waterway;" or if you feel like you are in danger.
During a hurricane, stay inside and away from windows and glass doors, FEMA states on its website. Be aware that a "lull" could mean you are in the "eye of the storm," so remain cautious, as winds may start again. Close all doors inside your home and secure external doors. Close all curtains and blinds. Hide in a small "interior room, closet, or hallway on the lowest level" and "lie on the floor under a table or another sturdy object."
Editor's Note: You can also check on Patch for your latest storm updates. Share your stories and submit storm photos by e-mailing Aaron@patch.com. For more specific information about hurricane safety, visit FEMA's website at www.fema.gov.
Tax credit
Tax Credits Expire Soon!
We are fast approaching the end of 2011, which also marks the end of the Federal Tax Credits for energy efficient products. From now until December 31, 2011 when you replace old, inefficient air conditioning, heating and plumbing systems you can reduce energy output (lower utility bills!), help the environment, improve home comfort and receive a 10% tax credit, up to $500.
In 2009, when the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act created these energy efficient tax credits, they were set to expire the end of 2010. At the final hour they were extended through the end of this year. With the current state of the economy, however, experts doubt that this program will be extended again (or will ever exist again in our lifetime!).
The most significant change from the 2009-2010 tax credits involves a reduction in the cap from $1500 to $500. This cap is the total amount of credits a homeowner may claim between 2006 and 2011, not just in 2011. If a homeowner has already claimed $500 or more in credits through this allowance, they will be unable to claim new credits for improvements made during 2011.
This is a perfect opportunity for anyone who has a heating and cooling system 5 years or older and has wanted to make a change and wants to save money! Also, we realize the tax stuff can be a little confusing, so contact FS Plumbing and Heating and we can help you not only pick qualifying products, but also verify your savings.
Don’t forget - these federal tax credits will expire on December 31, 2011!
We are fast approaching the end of 2011, which also marks the end of the Federal Tax Credits for energy efficient products. From now until December 31, 2011 when you replace old, inefficient air conditioning, heating and plumbing systems you can reduce energy output (lower utility bills!), help the environment, improve home comfort and receive a 10% tax credit, up to $500.
In 2009, when the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act created these energy efficient tax credits, they were set to expire the end of 2010. At the final hour they were extended through the end of this year. With the current state of the economy, however, experts doubt that this program will be extended again (or will ever exist again in our lifetime!).
The most significant change from the 2009-2010 tax credits involves a reduction in the cap from $1500 to $500. This cap is the total amount of credits a homeowner may claim between 2006 and 2011, not just in 2011. If a homeowner has already claimed $500 or more in credits through this allowance, they will be unable to claim new credits for improvements made during 2011.
This is a perfect opportunity for anyone who has a heating and cooling system 5 years or older and has wanted to make a change and wants to save money! Also, we realize the tax stuff can be a little confusing, so contact FS Plumbing and Heating and we can help you not only pick qualifying products, but also verify your savings.
Don’t forget - these federal tax credits will expire on December 31, 2011!
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